Illuminati-R-Us

Arneb has on a few occasions shared his love of his country's wine - including tales of visits to his favourite vineyards (wineries), generally in the Pfalz, possibly some in the far west of Hessen as well. (It was only recently I discovered that Rüdesheim is actually in Hessen - but then, I guess, where did I think Rheinhessen was??) But it's been implied that all the wines are white. Confirmed by family gatherings with Arneb's god-family, where the (invariably excellent) German wines were white; the reds were an expression of European unity.

But now the Wine Society catalogue reminds me that Germany produces reds as well. I wonder what people's views on them are.

Oh, we've been producing red wines for millenia, although admittedly, that was not what German was famous for in the 19th century, and it isn't what Germany is famous for now (in the wine world) - which is mainly dry Riesling.

Perhaps paradoxically, one of Germany's northernmost wine growing areas, the Ahr (a western tributary of the Rhine) is predominantly a red wine producer, and has been since Roman times. Then, there are the local varieties in the warmer, more southerly areas; Trollinger in Württemberg, Dornfelder in Baden - pleasant, fruity affairs, not very rich in tannins.

Germany's main red wine variety is an old and well-known acquaintance: Pinot Noir, or Red Burgundy, known as Spätburgunder. It is not as heavy and rich as, well Burgundy from Burgundy, but in the Southern German wine growing region, it has an Alsatian quality. lighter in colour and alcohol content and with a fine, fruity aroma. That variety is also the staple in the Ahr area and practically in any location that grows red wine in Germany.

With climate change, the German Spätburgunder are growing mightier and heavier, acquiring a more Burgundy (and more Soutth Alsatian) quality. But we are also seeing growers experiment with "classical" red wine varieties, like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, or even Syrah. We'll never produce (I hope) something approaching Chateauneuf du Pape or Californian Zinfandel, but prepare to see more Bordeaux-style stuff from places like the Palatinate. I have a Cabernet/Merolot cuvee on my shelf that is produced by a grower in the Southern Palatinate who actually has the majority of his vineyards across the border in Alscace: Tasty stuff for the agriculture lawyer, but even more tasty for the drinker.

The fact that you were always served lovely whites in Berlin has maybe skewed your perception a bit: The Mosel is and was a very predominent white wine growing region,and with a unique character, but even they produce about 9 % red varieties these days.

Maybe I'll experiment.